Duo of Goat

So I love coming out here to Colorado because this is where my entire year's stock of goat is sourced from. And it's great (I get the large majority of my lamb, elk and venison as well). So, I couldn't come out here without featuring it in a few dinners. The freshly source game out here is just fantastic.

There are quite a few goat farms in the area, and the elk and venison come from the family property in the Rockies. It is all butchered by the same small town butcher at nine thousand something feet and I love the fact that everything is local and unprocessed (not just local...but close to home!).

So this dinner was as much about presentation as it was about flavor for me. Presentation is extremely important because it is the first part of the meal that people experience. It gets the diner excited and salivating. The person who first introduced me to creative presentation was attending this particular shindig, so I felt I had to put my best foot forward on that front to impress!!!!

As a starter, I decided to take a page out of my restaurant's chef's playbook and make an heirloom tomato salad. Fresh and light, it composed of freshly sliced green, heirloom and cherry tomatoes. I topped it with chopped almonds, a round of goats cheese and an aged balsamic (with basil garnish). It was perfectly light and didn't ruin the appetite for the heavier mains.

My grandfather has had some dietary restrictions around acidic foods recently, so I made a separate starter for him. I did a take on proscuitto wrapped asparagus, but one that was more "knife and fork" edible. I blanched baby asparagus in balsalmic vinegar and olive oil, and then made a bed of them on the plate, topping them with a dollop of goat cheese and three proscuitto rosettes. Easy, classic, and yummy.

I decided for our first dinner party out here to feature a "duo of goat." My grandfather had already made a roast of a shank marinated in LOTS of red wine and brown sugar (like...2 cups brown sugar). He slow roasted it until the goat was well done but falling off the bone, shredding the meat so that we had a nice batch of tender, sweet, small bits to deal with. I wanted the meat to be warm, but not too hot as I wanted to form it into rillette shapes on the plate. I used small sections of PVC piping on the plate and packed it full of the shredded goat. It was pretty juicy, so I tried to shake it out before packing it. I slowly and carefully would pull the pipe directly up off of the plate and then drizzle some of the goats own juices back over the top of the formed meat. I then garnished it with one fresh lemon (for squeezing at the table) and a deep fried lemon wedge for sweetness.

In retrospect I should have garnished it with something green, ideally flat leaf parsley which would have complimented the lemon. The lemon juice over the goat was perfect, cutting the richness of the meat and adding complexity to the flavor palate. The deep fried lemon wheels were more fun than anything...you can eat the whole thing and they taste like one of those lemon head candies. I love them!

For the other half of the duo, I used a recipe that I had used before on a different cut of meat. I was making a goat rack and sirloin roast, which I used in my "moorish" recipe for a lamb shoulder slow roast. Unfortunately, I encountered the same problem with the goat back bone as I had before, and did not have the tools to break the bone properly, so after going to it with a hammer just admitted defeat on the whole presentation aspect. I was able to salvage the "pretty plate" with my sides though, so overall a win! 

The moorish goat I marinated overnight in harissa, a very spicy chili sauce originating in the Mediterranean, largely North Africa and southern Spain. You make a broth by sauteing carrots, garlic, and onions with coriander/cilantro stalks and cinnamon sticks and then combining with a mixture of white wine, water and honey. You place the meat over the bed of vegetables and then pour the sauce over in a dutch oven of some sort...and then slow roast for about two and half to three hours. The meat is super tender, and generally falls straight off the bone. I tried to prevent the falling off the bone until it got to the table, for my own presentation purposes.

I paired the super spicy meat with a mix of couscous, quinoa and red grapes that I formed into a little cake on the plate (using cookie cutters). I topped the cake with a greek and honey yogurt blended with cucumber puree (SO GOOD) and a cucumber salad tossed with fresh radish wheels and diced sweet onions in a sherry-sage vinaigrette. The super cool and sweet salad was a perfect balance for the heavy heat in the goat. 

To finish of the meal, and to avoid leaving anyone with heavy stomachs, I decided to do a light fruit dessert to cleanse the palate. I marinated two sliced peaches in Pimms No. 1 and two tablespoons of brown sugar all afternoon, and layered them in a saucer with slices of fresh (un-marinated) peaches. I topped off the dish with a small scoop of vanilla bean ice cream and two fresh basil leaves. It was really a nice ending to a meal that, in my opinion, found a balance between rich and light. I wasn't too full by the end of it, but I had certainly eaten enough!

I served the meats with a bottle of Fleurie Beaujolais gamay, 2011. Was light and a little gamey, perfect for pairing with stronger flavored meats like goat. We served the tomato starter with vodka martinis and olives, which was also a nice, clean pairing. A Pimms cup would have been a great pairing for dessert, but due to driver restrictions, we called it a night after the wine!

Can't wait for some risotto tonight! Off to the local Italian market for some charcuterie fun....until then! 

A quick revisit....

So at the very beginning of this blog I wrote an entry on my sweet and sour salmon, adopted from Jamie Oliver's recipe. This was great, but I always failed to achieve the color contrast in the fish between the crust and the center as I was afraid of overcooking it. See http://moresaltandlard.blogspot.com/2014/02/sweet-and-spicy-salmon.html


 I finally perfected it last night on the grill, when I finally decided to grill the fish on an open grill (over tin foil to prevent crumbling) rather than my normal steam packet (which prevents the honey crust from browning and crisping). Firstly, this particular salmon was an especially fatty filet. I heated the grill first, but then made sure that the salmon cooked at temperatures between 350 F and 400 F, never actually reaching 400 F. Granted, this did require some extra attention and the cooking time was a little longer, but the salmon was perfectly cooked and I achieved that darker orange crust with the soft, silky pink center!

Wasn't too concerned about the plating/presentation for this one, but was thrilled with the color contrast on the fish. Will never chicken out and use the steam packet on the grill again!

Restaurant Review: Le Diplomate

So we decided to take my mom here for her 50th  birthday celebrations. Le Diplomate has a reputation in D.C. of being exceptional, sought-after, and sometimes exclusive. The menu alone makes you salivate....chicken liver pate with brioche, escargot, scallops, filet mignon, a variety of raw bar options....very traditional and very, very french.

The decor was straight out of a Parisian corner cafe, red awnings and all. Tables were close together, yet still very comfortable. We had made a reservation and one party was running very late, so I was concerned that we would not be able to hold our table, but it ended up being just fine in the end.

We started with the escargot and chicken liver pate as appetizers. I had heard from multiple reputable sources that the starters were really the stars of the show...and they did not disappoint. The escargot was served out of shell in a butter and herb sauce, each topped with a puff pastry to substitute serving the snails over toast. This was brilliant, delicious, and very practical. The chicken liver pate was delightful. Silky smooth and not too heavy, they served it with a berry compote with toasted brioche. Ended up asking for more brioche as the pate serving was quite large, but between three people nothing overwhelmed our appetites and certainly left us wanting more!

In between course we had to do oysters. Well, when I say we I mean my father and I, my mother does not suffer from the same raw shellfish addiction that we do. It's a crutch, but such a pleasant and delicious one to have! East and West coast based on what was fresh and available, basic and delicious.

 Unfortunately the mains were not quite as spectacular. Don't get me wrong, they were excellent! For the price point and reputation though, I was expecting something truly divine. I had the scallops which were served with rhubarb and a cream sauce. The scallops were well cooked but small in size and the sauce, despite being wonderfully rich and creamy, overwhelmed the delicate dish.

I did enjoy a pleasant trip down memory lane on the wine front. Fixin is such an underrated (because its widely unknown) Burgundy and it is just so wonderful. This 2011 was just what I wanted-earthy, thin, and acidic. A classic young Burgundy to pair with our fish on a reasonable price point. If you can ever find good bottles of this gem, buy them! Generally comes a little cheaper than other villages because it is not as well known, but produces equally good wines. 

After starters, oysters, and relatively rich mains, we didn't feel like tasting through the dessert menu too much. We did get one though, just so we could have a nice candle extinguishing ritual for the birthday girl! The creme brulee really was awesome, light and fluffy rather than rich and heavy. An excellent finish to an overall very good meal.

Other than a mildly overrated entrees menu, the only other thing I noticed on a negative note at Le Diplomate was the management behavior on the floor. One of the managers had clearly been upset by something early in the evening, but very publicly dismissed service staff on the floor for it, which gave off a very negative vibe. Our server was excellent himself, attentive and friendly without being intrusive. The particular manager's behavior was off-putting though, especially because I also work in the service industry. 

I would rate my overall experience as 4/5 stars....losing a star due to the entree menu and the managements public demeanor. I would highly recommend a trip in for wine, oysters and appetizers, but I would leave it there. The bar was hopping, and when I return I think I will spend more time in that area of the restaurant. 

Oh yeah, and happy 50th to my beautiful and amazing mama!

Until next time...

California Coasting...Part One!

So I'm headed back to California at the end of my little excursion in the Rockies, so I figured I better update on my last excursion out there six weeks ago before I get into the sequel!

My father's side of the family has a huge reunion every summer out in Cayucos, CA where there is a shamelessly gaudy 4th of July parade and lots of beach time. And...sometimes.....some illegal fireworks. This year we steered clear of one of my favorite pastimes as it is generally ill advised to participate in activities that  generally result in high fines or incarceration.

Although I jetted out there for the reunion, I was NOT travelling almost 3000 miles without stopping by at least a couple of my food and wine spots. Turns out, time only permitted two, but beggers can't be choosers. So I chose my top two spots within driving distance of the house and made it happen!

1. TURLEY WINE CELLARS
    2900 Vineyard Drive, Templeton, CA

The first stop was a wine related one. I've been trying to keep up with all my latest wine stats through Decanter and Wine Spectator every month as I study for my Sommelier Level I exam at the end of the year, and found that Turley's latest vintage zinfandels had largely scored over 90 points (on a scale of 1-100...Wine Spectator has their own rating system that is similar to Robert Parker's, on both scales they rated highly). I figured, as this was a 20 minute drive from our beach residence in Cayucos, this would do nicely!

I dragged my mother and father along with me-as much as they protest they really do love it when I take them out to do these things :). The tasting rooms were beautiful! Pine and oak bars with trussed ceilings...it really was a cozy step away from the central coast "beach" vibe. It was quiet, and we had the full attention of the very warm and friendly bartender. We ended up swapping European travel stories and our favorite wines of the world...was a great bit of fun. Only reason I didn't spend the whole day there was that little detail of "other commitments."

The tasting list was great. You could pick a few out of the list to taste for a small fee, but the barman ended up letting us taste the whole shabang! The whites were basic. Nothing unpalatable, but that wasn't what I had come for anyhow. The zinfandels were really superb. Depending on whether they were sourced from their Paso or Napa vineyards, they ranged from lighter and spicy to full bodied and jammy. All was balanced and well blended, and I ended up walking away with about a case of mixed bottles.

One special thing about this winery, that my father really loved, was the Pesenti Red Velvet wine they carried. Not ACTUALLY a Pesenti wine, but a tribute to the original, this took my Dad back to the table wines when he was growing up, particularly that which was used in and served with spaghetti.

I would highly recommend a visit to this gem if one is out in the Paso Robles/San Luis Obispo area. Really talented at what they do best, the zinfandels are truly a treat to taste and, in my opinion, are great value for quality!

2. FIRESTONE WALKER BARRELWORKS

    620 McMurry Rd, Buellton, California

The second and last stop was to Buellton to see Firestone Walker's Barrelworks Brewery. I love Firestone Walker generally, but their barrel aged beers are truly something special. These beers are EVERYWHERE in California, and you can't go to a bar without the 806 pale on tap. As they are extremely rare to find on hte east coast, I was dying to taste as much of the forbidden FW fruit as possible. On my way back to Los Angeles to catch my flight, I couldn't pass up the opportunity to stop off the highway for a quick look in.

Well.......we all know how a quick trip into a brewery can be............

Roll on the tasting menu. Four at a time. And it was delicious.

There really is too much to cover when it comes to the specific beers I tasted while there, because I could probably write an entire post about each. And well, I'm not a beer blog. Some of the beers were straight from the cask and some had been kegged. Beers from the barrelworks are aged in a variety of barrels....bourbon, red wine, sherry, white wine....new oak even. Each one was distinctively different and outstanding. They even had a Mikkeller collaboration which I always get excited about as the Mikkeller beers are always masterful (another one to try is his Mikkeller Beer Geek Breakfast Stout...*salivates*). 

Unfortunately they did not have a great selection of large formats for sale in the tasting room, but I did get my hands on their 17th Anniversary blend. Ended up opening that up with my "beer boys" about a week later, and holy moly does that thing pack a rich punch. We were all very glad we split it between seven people...I don't even think I could make it through a full tulip (well I could but I wouldn't be happy about it later...). 

The bartender ended up giving me most of my tasting for free when he found out I was industry, which was a really awesome gesture. Overall a really great experience, but I wish I could have brought more home with me! I did walk away with an awesome t-shirt though :)

So, although limited on the booze factory excursions, both that I did visit were extremely rewarding. I did also get to zipline over a vineyard....and I may have stolen my cousins puppy in attempt to bring him back to the east coast...but unfortunately TSA frown upon those sort of things. 

Until next time, cheers!

Back in the saddle...in Colorado!

So just because I left my government job doesn't mean I all the sudden had time for me...apparently. I have so many posts to catch up on...including a few wine trips to California, but I figured I'd keep with the present for a brief one.

After working doubles for three weeks between a few restaurants, I am finally on a 10 day hiatus in the middle of nowhere. Thank goodness! I've been gone from the DMV for 12 hours and am already feeling the sanity slip back into my bloodstream (that and some nice rye). I not only have high altitude air to cleanse my lungs, but a full garden and endless game meat at my disposal. So let the do nothing but eat, sleep, drink and...well....you know...commence :)

Started my first morning here learning how to poach eggs properly. Might have gone through a carton...but hey, I was only starting my coffee routine at the same time. Here's the key guys...a touch of vinegar in the water. Well I only figured that one out about 9 eggs in. Whoops...


The biggest order of business today was to get all the vegetable shopping done (not satisfied by our garden yields) at the local orchards. Of course...we had to go to Colon, CO for the vegetables. So...straight from Colorado's colon......voila!

American cucumbers, roma tomatoes, heirloom tomatoes, green tomatoes, Italian plumbs, peppers, sweet onions, and all the rest. So yummy. The fresh aroma of everything is just really overwhelming. We have quite a few dinner parties planned over the next few nights, so it was good to start meal planning based on what was fresh.

Next was the one winery in the area, the winery at Holy Cross Abbey in Canon City. I really didn't expect much from Colorado wine, but was surprised to encounter quite well blended cab francs and merlots. All of their white wines had been blended using imported grapes (100%), so I wasn't quite as impressed by those. The staff in the tasting room were very friendly and fun to taste with. Also, it's in the middle of the Rockies....the view doesn't get much better than that.

I couldn't believe the size of some of the produce that we found.....and were gifted! Our lovely neighbor and gardener extroadinaire, Juan, brought us some great produce from his "jungle" as he calls it, the green house using his own recipe for organic soil. My granny and I couldn't get over the size of his cucumbers.....see photo below! He also gifted me his famous (at least to me) salsa recipe, which I have been trying to replicate for years! You're only getting half a glimpse ;)

Making some honey crusted salmon tonight for the quiet evening in. Can't wait to get to pasta making in the AM and my duo of goat tomorrow afternoon. Good be back and in the midwest!!!

Keeping calm and cooking on from the middle of nowhere....xoxo